A failing sewer lateral used to mean an excavator, a trench from the house to the street, and a restoration bill that rivaled the plumbing bill. Trenchless methods changed that. With two small access pits we can line or replace the pipe in place, leaving your driveway, hardscape, and landscaping where they are.
We camera every line before we propose anything, and you watch the footage with us. If your line doesn't need this work, that video is how you'll know.
Signs of a structural sewer problem
- The same drain clogs again weeks after being cleared
- Multiple fixtures back up at once, starting with the lowest drains
- A toilet gurgles when the washer or tub drains
- Sewage odor in the yard, or a suspiciously green strip over the line
- Slab or yard settling along the line's route
- Home built before the mid-1980s with clay or cast iron, with mature trees nearby
How we diagnose and repair
Camera inspection and locating
A push camera with a sonde runs the line while we mark its route and depth from the surface. We record footage, note the distance to every defect, and identify the pipe material. That gives you an evidence-based decision instead of a guess.
CIPP lining
A resin-saturated felt liner is pulled or inverted into the host pipe and cured, forming a continuous jointless pipe inside the old one. No joints means no root entry points, and the smooth interior actually improves flow despite the slight diameter reduction. Best for pipes with correct grade but cracks, root intrusion, or corrosion.
Pipe bursting
When the host pipe is collapsed or badly deformed, a bursting head is winched through it, fracturing the old pipe outward while pulling new HDPE in behind. Full-diameter replacement — or an upsize — from two small pits.
Spot repair and cleanout access
Sometimes a single offset joint under the sideyard is the whole problem and a targeted dig is both cheaper and better. We'll tell you when that's the case, and we'll add a proper cleanout while we're there so future service doesn't start with pulling a toilet.
What you get from us
The video, before and after
You get the pre-repair inspection footage and a post-repair inspection. This matters at resale, and it matters for your own confidence that the work did what we said it would.
Permits and flat-rate pricing
We pull permits, handle right-of-way requirements where the work approaches the main, and quote flat-rate so a longer-than-expected day isn't your problem. Financing is available on larger sewer projects.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does trenchless sewer repair actually mean?
It means rehabilitating or replacing the sewer line without excavating its full length. Two main methods: CIPP lining, where a resin-saturated liner is inserted and cured in place to form a new pipe inside the old one, and pipe bursting, where a head is pulled through the old pipe, fracturing it outward while drawing new pipe in behind. Both need only small access pits instead of a trench across your driveway and landscaping.
How do I know my sewer line is the problem?
Repeated backups in the lowest drains, multiple fixtures slow at once, gurgling from a toilet when the washing machine drains, sewage odor in the yard, unusually green patches over the line, or a drain that clears with a snake and re-clogs within weeks. A recurring clog in the same place is usually a structural problem — a belly, an offset joint, or root intrusion — not a blockage.
Do you camera the line first?
Always. We're not proposing sewer work off symptoms. A camera inspection shows the material, the condition, the exact distance to the defect, and whether it's roots, a belly, a crushed section, or an offset joint. You see the footage. That recording also tells us whether lining is appropriate or whether bursting or a dig is the honest answer.
When is lining not the right choice?
Lining restores a pipe; it can't correct a grade problem. If the line has a significant belly holding standing water, or a section is collapsed to the point that the liner can't be pulled through, lining will just give you a smooth new pipe with the same sag. In those cases pipe bursting or a spot dig is the correct fix, and we'll say so even though it's the harder sell.
How long does the job take and can I use water?
Most residential trenchless jobs are one to two days. Water service stays on, but drains are out of use during the lining or bursting portion — typically several hours. We tell you the window in advance so you can plan, and older adults and families with small children get scheduled with that in mind.
How long does a lined sewer last?
Cured-in-place liners are commonly rated in the fifty-year range, and the liner is jointless — which removes the root intrusion path, since roots enter at joints and cracks. That's why lining is popular in older Sun City, Phoenix, and Tempe neighborhoods with mature trees over clay or cast iron laterals.
Does the city or the HOA cover any of it?
Generally the homeowner owns the lateral from the house to the connection at the main, so the repair is yours. Where the defect sits close to the main or under the street, jurisdiction can shift, and permits are often required for work in the right-of-way. We handle permitting and will tell you plainly if any portion is arguably the municipality's responsibility.